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The Perigord Truffle, black, kitchen, food, product, knowledge, training

The Perigord Truffle

On a cold winter day a few years ago, my friend Martial called to propose a special dinner. He had just visited his mother’s home in the Perigord region of France where he had arrived in the midst of truffle season. Through family connections, he was able to procure a large quantity of the mysterious fungus; more, he said, than he could possibly consume because they are so perishable.

“What better reason to have a party?” said Martial, who is always finding excuses to entertain? True to the theme, we decided to use this embarrassment of riches in each course of a lavish dinner party. We began with baby greens with truffle vinaigrette crowned with shaved truffles which was followed by potato and truffle crusted black bass on top of a truffle and sweet potato ragout. Next came a truffle-oil cured rack of lamb served with a truffle flan, and we finished with a black pepper and truffle, white chocolate ice cream. Our extravagance was almost humorous, but the party was a decadent success. Of all the many meals I have enjoyed and prepared, this one will linger in my memory because it would be almost impossible to duplicate.

What is it about truffles that make them so irresistible? Part of the reason is their scarcity, and it is our nature to crave what is hard to come by. The limited supply accounts for their enormous expense, which establishes the truffle in a class with caviar and foie gras as foods for the most special of occasions. But beyond their elegant company, truffles are craved because their flavor and aroma are so unique they are just about impossible to explain in mere words. Some liken their smell to garlic; others sense a similarity to musk. I have heard people compare their taste to a fine cheese or delicate wine or even their botanical cousins, wild mushrooms. But these attempts to label the truffle do it no justice. It is like trying to describe the color blue to someone who has never seen it…where do you begin?

*** Part 2 ***

*** Part 3 ***


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